Sundsvall, the modest gem of Scandinavia
Big city feel, small-town charm, forest of treasures

Stockholm summers are notoriously fit for soaking in the daylight hours before the northern lights arrive. Claiming a patch of grass in the city park can be quite the competitive venue.

But about 250 kilometers north, the locals of Sundsvall are embracing their 20 hours of sunlight in wide open spaces. Deep in the wild forests of the Norrlands, their baskets overflow with the rare cloudberries and chanterelle mushrooms, both international delicacies in high demand and both plentiful in the region of Medelpad.

Sundsvall is the modest gem of Scandinavia, boasting the most well preserved late 19th Century buildings in Sweden, directly in the heart of a functioning city center full of shops, restaurants, and cafes. While it offers all of the aesthetics and amenities of a historically rich European metropolis, it wins a sharp edge through immediate to a sprawling countryside of pine, rolling hills, mirror lakes, and the Bothnian Coast.

Big city feel, small-town charm, and outdoor haven, Sundsvall is waiting for discovery.

Here are six ways to experience Sundsvall during cloudberry season:

1. Try the Berries and Mushrooms, Or Pick Them Yourself:

Allemansrätten, or the “right of public access,” is a common law privilege special to Sweden, leaving the countryside wide open for all to wander, camp, and pick mushrooms and berries, even if on another’s property. “No Trespassing” signs are virtually nonexistent.

Sundsvall is a prime location to reap the benefits of this right, conveniently located in the heart of the northern forests that produce an average of 500,000 tons of wild berries and 3,600 million liters of mushrooms annually.

From mid-July to mid-August, locals put on their game faces for the season of the rare cloudberry, a yellow-orange, tart fruit similar to the size and shape of a raspberry. Traditionally the cloudberries are made into marmalade and served as a warm topping on vanilla ice cream. 1891 and Victoria’s on Storgatan both serve this Swedish treat during the summer months.
August through September are prime for lingonberries, also made into marmalade and served with just about everything in Sweden. Experience a Norrlands tradition by eating it with elk, a delicious, sweet contrast to the salty meat. The Steakhaus, tailored towards upscale dining, and The Bishop’s Arm, a more relaxed pub, both offer this dish.

A plethora of wild berries awaits your picking, the most accessible location at Sidsjön Lake, less than a mile from the city center. During the summer a casual walk around the circumference trail offers blueberries, wild raspberries, and black and red currants to munch on along the way.

But the ultimate experience is hunting for rare treasures deep in the forests: The cloudberries and summer chanterelles (globally renowned as one of the best forest mushrooms). This is only possible by befriending a local, and asking them lead you into their secret troves. Sundsvall embraces their few tourists, so you just may get lucky.

2. Ooooh and Ahhh over the Architecture of the Stenstaden (The Stone City):

The fire of 1888 brought Sundsvall the ground in less than nine hours. But like a Phoenix rising from the ashes, 573 stone structures were erected in less than five years as the wealthy timber magnates’ of the sawmill industry embraced their dreams of building a “European City.” Hiring the best architects and designers in Sweden, they raced to out dazzle, leaving a Pre-Renaissance city center unmatched in its architectural diversity and excessively decorated facades.

Walking the Stenstaden will make your jaw drop, and you’ll ask yourself: Why haven’t I heard of this place?

The intricate details of the copper and zinc roofs, hand painted murals, ornaments and figurines are best appreciated through a historical tour. Reserve a spot on the Rooftop Tour for a lesson high above the ground, or for those afraid of heights, try the MP3/headphone guided tour and stick to the streets.

3. Do the Dragon Walk:

A dragon has the power to conjure the storms and douse a fire with rain, or so the locals of Sundsvall believed when placing dragon figurines on their rooftops after the disaster. Each summer the locals celebrate their rise from the ashes during the Dragon Festival, an art exhibition littering the streets of Stenstaden with life-sized, hand-painted dragons full of expression.

Start your dragon walk at Casino Cosmopol, head all the way down Storgatan through the Stora Torget, and you’ll find the critters with the most attitude, hovering above or scaling the wall of the In shopping center. Fill your water bottle at the fountain dragon, and taste the best city water in Sweden, or break at Café Evolet for a special saffron tea.

4. Drive the Kustgaven:

Winding through the countryside beyond the city, the scenic coastal road interlocks the tiny fishing villages along the Bothnian Coast, passing a plethora of hiking and biking trails along the way, and nontraditional shopping stops.

Head towards Lörudden: The smallest fishing village on the easternmost tip of the coastline. In the summer the fishermen and local artists selling crafts animate this charming oasis. Try the marina’s fresh herring, prepared four different ways, or purchase your own in the fish market and cook it up at one of the open fire pits along the drive.

Be on the lookout for a “Löppis” sign. During the summer, locals of the countryside open their homes in a Swedish style yard sale, and the finds are priceless.

5. Mingle with the Locals: Do the Foxtrot

The big city potential of Sundsvall hasn’t overcome its small town charm. Before the industrial revolution brought in the clubs, foxtrot dancing was the big event in town, and it still remains a popular event for all ages today.

In the Stenstaden, Casino Cosmopol and the Avenue host live music and foxtrot events weekly, but to taste the true flavor of Sundsvall’s culture, hit one of the summer events hosted in Kovland and Timra. Outside of the central city, you’ll find the locals packed into a country pavilion, up close and personal, dancing their own version of the foxtrot.

6. Do Like the Locals – Ice Cream in the Park

The city becomes a summertime green oasis – gardens, parks, and benches everywhere and the locals love nothing more than to relax and soak it all in. Do it their way, buy an ice cream at one of the many kiosk stands in the Stora Torget and relax in one of the many parks while you people watch.

Benches in Vängåvan Park, adjoining the Stora Torget, surround the historic fountain designed by architect Sofia Gisberg in 1886. In Stadhusparken Hedern, the “Dialog” fountain, designed by Christian Partos, will keep you visually occupied, creating an illusion of two faces speaking as it pivots.

(Rooftop reservations, MP3 rentals, Kustgaven information, and trail maps are all available in the Tourist Information Center in the Stora Torget.)

Getting There: Transportation from Stockholm
Flight: Direct 45 minute flights through Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) www.flysas.com
Train: SJ offers express ride directly from airport, tickets may be booked online (http://www.sj.se/sj/jsp/polopoly.jsp?d=10&l=en)
Car: Rent a car for a 4-5 hour drive north on the E4 coastal road